Arabian Nights (Jaisalmer)

Our arrival in Jaisalmer was definitely the low point of the trip so far. We had to take an overnight General train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer, which is basically a stool in the mail car packed full of the poorest Indian men. We had not blankets and it got to freezing in the desert overnight and with no sleep and frostbitten toes, we made our way to the Jaisalmer fort in search of accommodation. It was 5am and everywhere we had planned on staying was full and we had to settle for an overpriced terrible room, with grumpy service and pushy staff, but it was a bed and it had blankets so we were in.

It always seems in India, when you have hit rock bottom the next day always somehow completely redeems any hardship that have come before. Jaisalmer is amazing, it is a desert town all golden sandstone building and centered by an amazing fort which people still live in, and where our hotel is. Compared to anywhere we have been so far it is quiet, the people friendly, and the shopping amazing. We bumped into an Aussie couple we met in Varanasi, and had drinks with them at their hotel which we ended up staying at.

The following day we hired a jeep and some camels for a trek into the desert. We loaded up our camels with water, food, and blankets and wandered off into the desert. Through a few small mud hut villages and some lentil farms we arrived at the dunes where we set up camp and would be spending the night. We had dinner cooked on the campfire and some pretty terrible Indian wine which we shared with a very cool older German couple. The best part was getting to sleep under the stars. Our bed was literally a blanket on the sand, and we awoke to a flock of Peacocks checking us out! On the way back Jess learned how to make her Camel run fast, and we had a pretty sweet desert race home.....Jess won!

Our last night in Jaisalmer we spent with a Welsh author (Lloyd Jones) and his daughter enjoying some beers at our hotel and sharing stories from our journey.

All in all Jaisalmer has been amazing but we both are excited to start heading south and getting out of the cold.

Next up Jodhpur...